alan mccall [sometimes updates the area below]: Aventure Grande

Due to an internet outage I was not able to continue my daily Togo series but the tubes are once again unclogged and I shall now continue.

First of all, I would like to take care of some business of acknowledgement. I have uploaded all of Corbett’s Togo pictures and they are now available for viewing on my Picasa photostream. I’ll be honest, her pictures are way better than mine (mostly because I avoid people pictures) so her contribution is greatly appreciated. If you’re reading: Thank you Corbett!

Back to the story…

I awoke just before sunrise to the sound of prayer calls echoing through the hills of Sokodé from a multitude of mosques. It was actually a very pleasant alarm clock but I wasn’t ready to wake up yet so after a minute or two of appreciating the sounds, I fell back to sleep.

Eventually, I woke up permanently and the three of us embarked upon a breakfast excursion in the markets of Sokodé. After perusing the many options I settled on having two baguettes, buttered of course, and a fried ball of dough. Nutritious!

We eventually stumbled upon a place to get some coffee to go with the food aspects of breakfast. The place was called “Café Obama” and on the inside there was an enourmas “Yes we can” painted on the wall. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this before but there are countless hotels and cafés across west Africa which bear our president’s name… he’s popular in these parts.

Cafe Obama

After, café Obama we began a post breakfast stroll through the streets of Sokodé. The red dirt roads led us to a small stream and a gauntlet of lush avocado trees and palms. It was almost like an oasis of greenery in the dry savannah and cityscape.

We followed this road up the hill and passed by a rocky hill, on top of which sat the city’s water tower. Some men were hanging around the entrance to the stairs, the view from the water tower hill had to be great… You know we had to ask.

Corbett approached the first man and began in French, he replied and based on her explanation this is what was said: “Well, due to security concerns there’s something you have to do first…” Uggh, red tape… “Ask my boss… boss?” he motioned to the old man next to him. “Yeah, of course. Lets go.” That was easy.

The boss led us up the steep, mossy stairs cut into the hillside and after rounding the water tower we reached a platform which had a great view of Sokodé. The town itself wasn’t spectacular but the savannah stretched out almost endlessly until it met the hazy mountains on the horizon.

View from the top

The old boss had some trouble operating the camera to take group photo but instead, took a stellar self-portrait when he pointed the camera in the wrong direction to take our picture.

The Bossman

We thanked him and went back down to the road to continue our aimless stroll of Sokodé. It was a lovely day in a lovely town. The best part for me was being in a place where absolutely no tourists go. Sokodé has no real attractions and therefore, no one waiting to take advantage of tourists. Everyone we met was kind, honest and I imagine, an appropriate representation of most Togolese.

Some highlights of our aimless stroll included a grove of gnarled old tress with boulders that could conceivably have become a great reading and thinking spot, a fantastic mossy rock wall and the city’s trash heap.

OMG, a trash heap!! ... why was I so excited? I don't know.

We relaxed at a café and ate our lunch under some trees by the roadside and watched the world go by.

Eventually, we made our way out of town and decided to head back to Atakpame. We arrived in Atakpame at sunset and made our way to a restaurant to eat on tree stump tables? It was interesting furniture and decent food.